Thursday, May 15, 2014

New Glaze Loads out of the Kiln

Mugs from the new glaze load

Award bowl for order
Back up award bowl for order
I have been working a bit more now that the weather has allowed the clay to thaw, and the shop to be warm enough to work with out using too much electric to heat it up. I have had an order of Communion Sets(16) and award bowl to make for a customer. As of today they are all shipped to various colleges across the country where new ordinands are graduating. These are for a special graduation award. 
 Chalices and Patens are something that I have been doing now for about 25 years. These are a sampling of the latest.

I throw the bowls for the chalice off of the hump, and the stems also. Then I trim the stems in a chuck I have made for the Griffin Grip, and the cups later. When each cup has been trimmed, and an added edge added in for the stem top to set into, I join them together right on the wheel and firm up the join with the wheel moving slowly. this allows me to make a strong join, and to make certain the stem is online and straight up.

 I join the two pieces together with a liquid called Magic Water. It is a combination of soda ash, and Sodium Silicate. I have had better luck with this compound than I used to have with plain slip or slip and vinegar. I use a stiff small bottle type brush to apply the Magic Water and roughen the clay at the same time.
 I have been having problems with the darker clay body that I had ordered as part of my clay this last order. I had never worked with it before, and so it has been a bit of challenge. It throws very well, and looks nice in the greenware and bisqware stages, but it had been taking glaze very differently than I had been used to.

I tried a new tack for these last two loads, that of applying most of the glaze with a spray gun. Layering the colors, and blending one into another has allowed me to come back to a glaze effect that is much better with this clay body.

 I sign all of my work now, and add in the date. I also use an old lead printing R as a chock for the bottom also. This is the bottom of one of the patens for the order.

It may be a little fancy for some, but it seems to finish the bottom of the piece, and these are for presentation. So a little more interest for those that might look at the bottom, and the owners of the Communion Set.

Mugs are something that I enjoy doing quite a bit, and these are some of the newer ones. These have been warped with a rib held at the side while the wheel is turning slowly. Then I reround the pot a bit leaving in the grooves and off centered areas in the form. After these are trimmed, I add a handle that I have pulled off of the mug and join on using the Magic Water.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Throwing a Teapot

I have posted quite a bit on assembling a teapot and some of the things that make a successful one, but today I am going to post a video of throwing the individual pieces for the teapot. Because of the constraints for a blog as far as uploads, I have broken the steps into 2 videos, Spout and Lid. Throwing the body is in the last part of the Lid video.
When throwing the spout a few reminders and caveats:
  1.  A larger base or funnel will power the liquid through the spout.
  2. The spout opening should funnel down to about the size of your little finger.
  3. There should be a straight section of spout to even out the turbulence of the flow.
  4. The end flair of the spout should not be very extreme.
Double cut leaving a pad at the base when removing from the wheel does two things:
  1. It protects the base of the spout from warping when being removed from the wheel
  2. It keeps the base of the spout from drying out too much while the spout dries making it easier to join to the teapot body.
Removing the lid by using a wooden rib, or a butter knife in this manner takes a little bit of practice, but is well worth the effort as it can save you a lot of time when throwing several lids or chalice/goblet cups etc off of the hump.
I take a bit of time forming the body of the pot as the extra lines and edges create interest in the breaking glaze. I do not like too narrow of a base on teapots as they can get tippy.

I hope that these videos will help some of you in throwing a teapot, and when looking for assembly look at some of my other posts.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Assembling a Teapot; it doesn't just happen!

As I have said before, in past posts, teapots are the test of the potter. Many variables are involved in the creation of the pieces and in the assembly of the finished pot. Handles that are functional and yet comfortable, Spouts that pour readily, lids that fit and don't fall off during the pouring process, are all involved in the creation of a finished teapot. The graphic to the right gets a little deeper into the subtleties of the teapot form.

Usually when I start doing a teapot, I throw several, bodies, spouts and lids at one time. This time I only threw four sets with a few extra spouts and lids. The extras allowed me to pick and choose what I wanted to use on the teapots design wise.
Embroidery hoops and trimmed pot body

The body of the teapot usually starts as some form that will hold an amount of liquid, has some form of foot ring on the bottom, and an opening to pour the water into, and clean the teapot as needed. Either one large hole, or several smaller holes are added to the form during assembly to allow entrance of the tea into the spout during pouring.
For this series of pots I am going to do something a little different to the body first. I am going to cut the shoulder of the pot at and angle using an embroidery hoop to add a little fun to the form.

Embroidery hoop at slight angle

Cut made where hoop had been
Rotated top area 180 degrees
Body rejoined ready for spout
After the body has been rejoined, it is time to add the spout to the form. The position and angle of the spout is very important in teapot meant for use. If the end of the spout comes below the mouth of the pot, the water will pour as the last of water is added into the pot. If the angle of the spout is too perpendicular to the body the same happens, or the tea starts pouring to quickly. If the angle of the spout is too steep it is difficult to pour the last of the tea out, unless one tips the pot beyond a comfortable angle. Some angle is needed also to help pull the tea in the spout back into the pot when ending a pour. The spout end should have sharper edge to cut off the last of the tea preventing a drip-difficult.

Hack saw blade at angle
Assembled spout, and lid waiting handles and finishing
The spout is cut with a fettling knife, or in this case a hack saw blade at an angle. I usually taper the inside of the cut to make it fit the rounded form a little easier. I rest the spout up against the side of the pot in the position I want tracing the shape. Inside this area a place a series of holes @1/4 inch. Using scoring and slip or magic water, I join the spout to the body and blend in the join using a wooden rib.
Here are the four finished teapots with pulled body handles and a variety of lid handles. White slip decoration was added on along with a few other embellishments to the decoration including some stamping and line work with a notched squeegee. The left three pots have the tilted neck section adding a little fun to the form. Second form one from the left uses a thrown lid handle with a little tilt to it. The far right put uses a rolled and decorated coil for a ring handle. The other two pots use pulled handle forms for the lids. As with any experiment with forms, the true test of what these work like will be when glazed and used to serve tea.

An extra note, on brewing tea in a teapot. There are also sorts of connoisseurs that know the way to brew and serve tea. There are others where it is sacrilege to do less pour hot water into the teapot and leave sit, boil the water in a kettle, pour the hot water out of the teapot, and pour in the recently boiled but cooled water. Then the tea is added and let to steep for a set number of minutes. I know these techniques, and forget much of the detail. I am simple, when I want tea, I want it then. I add tap water to the room temperature teapot, put it in the microwave for about 3 minutes, take it out and put in my tea bags or loose tea. Let it sit for about 2 minutes and pour the first cup, when that is gone I continue on until the tea is gone. I don't remove the bags, or the loose tea as the tea is stronger in the second or third cup and I like it that way.I'm sure there are those out there that would shun this, but I do what works for me, and at the same time don't knock it until you try it.
For those of you that are new to tea and teapots; a teapot is not a kettle, it should never be placed on an direct heat source like a range top, or open fire to boil water. Serious bodily harm happen from the thermal shock of the bursting pot.

Friday, June 21, 2013

Succulent Garden

Two days ago, my grand daughter took time from her Summer vacation time to plant the Succulent Garden for her grandma. We used some plants that we had in the house already, and a few from the local nursery.
It makes a nice addition to the house, and uses the pot that is in one of the previous posts. Over the years it has had a little bit of damage, but very little is of notice. I think in the long run it is better than throwing it out.

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Wedding Jar Part 3

Now the jar is waiting to be fired, drying should take about a week.  I have engraved the name of the couple on the lid, along with their wedding date. You may be able to see the square knot on the top for the handle; symbolic of the joining of a couple in matrimony. I did shorten the base by about 1/2" to emphasize the neck and lid area a little more. Scraping, finishing and some incised linear patterns were added to the shoulder.  these things all help out in adding detail to the glaze surface. After posting this picture I notice the dent in the rim of the lid and will smooth that in. Glazing should be in about two weeks.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

The Wedding Jar Part 2

waiting for finishing handles and lettering
In the post before, I documented the steps used to create the inset slabs with the pine needle decoration. The slabs were assembled into a box form and now I have the box with the neck, the lid, and the foot ring as you can see here.

Many people that have not worked with a circle over a square like the neck would assume it is by guess work. Not really, the secret is to use the distance between the sides for the inside diameter of the thrown neck, and then to use the diagonal dimension between corners for the outside of the neck. Once the neck has stiffened up to at least cheese hard, I join it on to the box using magic water, a combination of sodium silica and soda ash,  following the standard scoring always good to help with a clean join.

The foot ring on the bottom was thrown with the outside side measurements, and joined on the same as the neck. I am not certain yet if I am happy with the height of the ring yet, but can still trim it down and thicken the base rim needed.

At this point the neck/box join is in need of further refinement by scraping with hack saw blades and smoothing with rubber ribs. I will also add the wedding dates, names of the couple, and finish the lid with a handle and some matching slip colored rings. I will add those images to the blog as soon as completed.

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Pine Needle Motif Slab Form

I have been working on a new idea for slab and wheel thrown forms after a request from one of my sisters. She wanted to have a lamp form that would go with her mission style furniture. After much thought, a few pages of sketches on form and variation, I decided to create large textured plate to roll a slab over.

Over the last few weeks, the plate,1/8 inch plywood, was covered with modeling paste, textured, and dried. Three coats of modeling paste in this manner and I was ready for step 2. This time I used a dremel tool on a router mount to create a series of pine needle type lines with branch areas added in. I cut the plate horizontally, getting rid of part for more interest. 
This form worked to some degree, especially after spraying a bakers spray on it. This aided in the release of the slab from the form. You will notice I have nailed on two sticks of equal thickness to roll my rolling pin over. I had hoped that the design would give me a complete panel with the pine needle design indented. Not so.
In the finished slab rolled out over the form, the top is missing the border edge. The pine needle motif is coming out very well, and should not need a whole lot of work in the wet stage. I next tried pounding out the slab over the form, rolling in different directions, not rolling out the slab, pounding it down and then cutting the height of the sticks. None of the techniques gave me the crisp full border I was looking for.
At this point I believed that the problem was caused by the clay moving over the design plate when being rolled or pounded causing it to blur the border. I decided to try fully confining the slab to the plate, not allowing the clay to slide around as it got rolled or pounded into the form.  This worked much better than any other attempts and with a little work will allow me to have 4 slabs to assemble and add wheel thrown parts for a jar.  This preliminary form is to be a wedding jar for a good friend. A year late, sad to say.

With a little smoothing in the wet stage, and careful trimming this slab is ready to start drying to leather hard when I will bevel the edges of the 4 pieces to join together. I will post later as things progress.
Here is the basic box waiting for the foot ring, neck and lid. these will be wheel thrown and added on next. I have highlighted some of the decoration with white and green engobe, to help bring out the texture, and add light areas to the decoration under the glaze. The hazelnut brown clay is beautiful, but can darken glazes quite a bit.